Artificial grass installation in Idaho Falls depends on what lies beneath the turf as much as the turf itself. The infill, base preparation, drainage system and finishing details determine whether your yard will look good, drain properly, last through freeze-thaw cycles and feel right underfoot in a decade. This guide walks through each layer, explains why it matters on the silty volcanic soils and climate of the upper Snake River Plain, and shows you what to ask for in writing from any turf installer you hire.
Whether you are converting a lawn that browns in late summer and winter-kills in patches, building a pet area that stays dry and odor-free, or preparing a yard for an event or a sale, understanding infill and base prep will help you make the right choice and spot shortcuts before they become problems.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the granular material spread across the turf after installation. It serves multiple purposes: it props the synthetic fibres upright so they feel and perform like real grass, protects the backing from ultraviolet light, adds weight to keep the turf stable in wind, and helps distribute water through the system. Different infill types are chosen for different uses and climates.
Silica sand is the baseline infill, a fine mineral material that is inexpensive and effective as ballast. It compacts over time, which is why proper depth and occasional raking matter. Coated sand uses rounded silica grains with a polymer or mineral coating that is gentler on the turf fibres, resists compaction longer, and can be tinted to match or complement the grass colour. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs and neutralizes odors, making it popular for pet turf and dog run installation, especially in yards where urine smell has been a problem. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, sold under brand names such as Envirofill, combine mineral or sand bases with coatings that inhibit bacterial growth and lower surface temperature in direct sun, useful in high-use or heat-sensitive applications.
Crumb rubber (recycled tire rubber) is standard in sports fields and athletic courts because it provides cushioning and impact absorption, but it is not commonly used in residential yards in Idaho Falls, where the climate, foot traffic and pet use do not typically justify the cost or the maintenance it requires.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is specified by weight in pounds per square foot, not by depth or volume. A typical residential turf product might call for 2 to 4 pounds per square foot, while a heavy-duty sports or pet turf could require 4 to 6 pounds or more. The exact amount depends on the turf product itself (its pile height, face weight and fibre type), the intended use, and local climate. More infill is not always better, and too little is a common shortcut of budget installations that leave turf fibres exposed, backing unprotected from UV, and the system prone to movement and drainage problems.
Infill performs three critical jobs. First, it holds the synthetic fibres erect and prevents matting, keeping the turf looking full and performing consistently. Second, it shields the backing material from sun exposure, which degrades polyethylene and polyurethane over time. Third, it adds weight and stability, especially important in the wind that crosses the open Snake River Plain. Proper infill also supports drainage by creating pathways for water to move through the system and into the base below.
Always ask your installer for the infill type and the pounds per square foot in writing before work begins. If you see a quote that does not specify infill amount, or if an installer says the amount will be determined on site without a written range, that is a sign to ask more questions or get a second opinion.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The layers under artificial grass are as important as the turf itself, especially on the silty volcanic soils around Idaho Falls where water can pool and freeze in winter or sit and cause odor in pet areas. Installation begins with removal of the existing lawn, old turf, roots and debris, followed by excavation to the depth required by the base specification. Once the area is cleared and graded, a weed barrier (usually a geotextile fabric) is laid to prevent soil from migrating up into the base and to inhibit weed growth at the perimeter.
Next comes the free-draining base, typically decomposed granite or crushed base rock (also called crusher fines or recycled asphalt). This layer is compacted in lifts (usually 2 to 3 inches at a time) using a plate compactor to achieve firm, even support. The compacted base is graded with a slight fall away from the house and any pool or structure to direct water away and prevent pooling. For patios, balconies, pet areas and play spaces, an optional drainage underlay or pad is installed on top of the compacted base. This layer further improves drainage, adds comfort underfoot, and in pet areas helps manage odor.
Finally, the turf is laid over the prepared base and underlay. On hard surfaces such as concrete or balconies, turf is never glued flat to the slab; instead, a draining underlay is laid first, and edge drainage is installed to channel water away from the structure. Proper layering ensures water moves through the system quickly, preventing the standing water and freeze-thaw damage that can occur in Idaho Falls winters.
Base Prep on Idaho Falls Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Base preparation is where many installations succeed or fail. Idaho Falls sits on silty volcanic soils over shallow basalt, and in many yards the natural ground does not drain freely. Compacted clay and silt layers can trap water, leading to puddles, odor (especially in pet areas), and frost heave in winter when water freezes and expands. A properly prepared base intercepts this water and directs it away.
Base prep begins with excavation to remove the existing lawn and roots, and to reach a depth that allows for the base material and any underlay. The excavated area is then graded with a gentle slope away from the house and any pool or patio to ensure water runs off rather than pooling. Three to four inches of compacted base material (decomposed granite or crushed base rock) is standard for residential applications. This material is spread in lifts and compacted firmly with a plate compactor. Proper compaction is critical: an uncompacted base will settle unevenly, creating dips and soft spots in the turf that collect water and odor, and that feel unstable underfoot.
If your yard has a genuine drainage problem, such as a low spot that holds water after rain or a history of wet basement or patio areas, base prep alone may not solve it. In those cases, proper grading, subsurface drainage or other remedies should be addressed before turf installation. We will walk away from a job with a water problem rather than install turf over it, because the turf will fail and the underlying issue will remain. A consultation with the local building department or a drainage specialist is the right first step if you are unsure.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass is designed to drain, but the rate of drainage varies by product and is stated in gallons per hour per square foot. Perforated backing has small holes punched through the polyethylene or polyurethane layer, allowing water to pass through relatively quickly. Fully permeable backing is manufactured to be porous throughout, draining even faster and allowing water and air to move freely. For most residential yards in Idaho Falls, a turf product with a drainage rate of 15 to 30 gallons per hour per square foot is adequate for typical rainfall and irrigation runoff.
Pet areas and play spaces are where drainage is truly tested. A dog run or a playground in a wet spring or after heavy rain can accumulate water quickly, and if the turf and base do not drain fast enough, urine sits in the infill and backing, odor develops, and the base becomes soft. In these applications, a fully permeable backing and a fast-draining base are not optional. The same principle applies to pool surrounds, where splash and humidity can create standing water that breeds odor and mold if it does not drain away.
It is important to understand that a fast-draining turf product still fails on a base that does not drain. If the base is compacted clay or uncompacted soil, water will pool above it regardless of what the turf backing allows. That is why base preparation and drainage work together: the turf carries water down, and the base and underlay carry it away. Ask your installer for the turf's drainage rate in writing, and confirm that the base has been properly excavated, graded and compacted to support it.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
How a turf installation is finished at the seams and edges separates a careful installer from one who cuts corners. Seams are the joints where two pieces of turf meet, and they must be sealed with seam tape and a polyurethane or urethane adhesive applied to both sides of the tape. The grain of the turf (the direction the fibres lean) must be aligned across the seam so the pile flows smoothly and the seam is nearly invisible when the infill is spread and the fibres are brushed. A visible seam line, especially one where the grain direction changes or where the tape is not fully adhered, is a sign of rushed work.
Nails or staples secure the turf perimeter to the base, typically spaced 6 to 12 inches apart depending on the turf weight and local wind conditions. The fasteners must be driven flush or slightly below the surface so they do not catch feet or mowers. Edging is installed along the perimeter using bender board (flexible steel or aluminum edging), landscape timber, or a secured border that keeps the turf from rolling or separating. Turf cut tight to pavers, pool decks or other hard surfaces without gaps or overlaps shows precision. Power brooming is the final step: a mechanical broom is run across the entire installation to stand the fibres upright, distribute infill evenly, and make the turf look full and natural. Without brooming, the turf can appear flat and matted, especially in high-traffic areas.
A lifted edge or a separating seam after installation is usually a sign that the base was not compacted firmly, the perimeter was not secured properly, or the seam was not sealed correctly. These are not maintenance issues; they are installation defects that should be addressed before you pay in full.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any turf installer begins work, you should receive a written specification that details exactly what will be installed and how. This spec is your protection and your reference if questions arise later. A complete written spec includes the following elements: the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene or nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters, the backing type and its drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and the pounds per square foot to be installed, the base depth and base material (such as 3.5 inches of compacted crusher fines), whether a weed barrier will be used, the seam method and edging type, cleanup and haul-off responsibilities, and the workmanship warranty period (typically one to three years on the installation itself).
A spec also clarifies what is not included: site preparation work such as tree removal, irrigation system relocation, or concrete removal is usually separate, and those costs should be quoted separately if needed. If your yard has an HOA, the spec should note that you will submit the turf product details for architectural approval, though we cannot guarantee approval on your behalf.
Ask for this spec in writing before you sign a contract. If an installer resists putting details in writing, or if the quote is vague about product, infill, base depth or warranty, that is a reason to look elsewhere. We provide a site measurement and a written spec as part of our free estimate process. You can also review our pricing page to understand the range of costs for different applications. A detailed spec protects both you and the installer, and it is the mark of a professional turf installation company.